Hey there, fellow axolotl lovers! We’ve been keeping these adorable underwater salamanders for years, and we’ve learned a ton through trial and error. Today, we’re sharing everything you need to know about setting up the perfect home for your axolotl. Let’s clear up all the confusion and get your little water dragon thriving!

Complete Axolotl Tank Setup: 6 Must Have Items

Must-Have Item	Why It’s Important	Recommended Details
Large Tank	Gives axolotls space to move and reduces stress	Minimum 20 gallons (75L) for one axolotl
Cool, Clean Water	Axolotls need cool water to stay healthy	16–18°C (60–64°F), dechlorinated
Gentle Filter	Keeps water clean without strong currents	Sponge or low-flow canister filter
Safe Substrate	Prevents injury and impaction	Fine sand or bare bottom (no gravel)
Hiding Spots	Helps axolotls feel safe and relaxed	Caves, PVC pipes, or smooth décor
Water Test Kit	Ensures safe water conditions	Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate <20 ppm

Tank Size: Bigger Is Always Better

Here’s the truth: axolotls need space. A lot of it.

Minimum tank size: 20 gallons for one axolotl. But honestly? We recommend starting with a 30-gallon long tank. Your axolotl will be happier, and you’ll have an easier time keeping the water clean.

Planning to add more axolotls? Add 10 gallons for each additional buddy. So two axolotls need at least 30 gallons, preferably 40.

Why so much space? Axolotls are messy eaters and produce a lot of waste. More water means toxins get diluted better, giving you more wiggle room between water changes.

Water Temperature: Keep It Cool!

This is where many new owners mess up. Axolotls are cold-water creatures from mountain lakes in Mexico. They HATE warm water.

Ideal temperature: 60-64°F (15-18°C)

Absolute maximum: 68°F (20°C)

Anything above 70°F and your axolotl will get stressed, stop eating, and can even get sick. In warm climates, you’ll need an aquarium chiller. Yes, they’re expensive (around $200-400), but they’re not optional if your room gets warm.

Some cheaper alternatives if your house stays relatively cool:

• Clip-on fans pointed at the water surface
• Frozen water bottles floated in the tank (change them 2-3 times daily)
• Air conditioning in the room

We use a combination of AC and fans during summer, and our axolotls stay comfortable.

Filtration: Essential But Gentle

Axolotls need clean water, but they don’t like strong currents. Their gills are delicate, and strong flow stresses them out.

Best filter options:

• Sponge filters (gentle, perfect for beginners)
• Canister filters with the output diffused
• Hang-on-back filters with a spray bar

We personally love sponge filters for axolotl tanks. They’re cheap, quiet, and provide gentle filtration. Just make sure it’s rated for your tank size.

Important: Whatever filter you choose, reduce the flow. Axolotls should be able to swim around easily without getting pushed by the current.

Substrate: Sand or Bare Bottom Only

This one’s critical for your axolotl’s health.

Safe options:

• Fine sand (less than 1mm grain size)
• Bare-bottom tank (no substrate at all)

NEVER use:

• Gravel
• Small rocks
• Glass beads
• Marbles
• Anything they can swallow but not pass

Why? Axolotls eat like vacuum cleaners, sucking up everything. If they swallow gravel, it can cause impaction (blockage in their digestive system), which can be fatal.

We use fine aquarium sand in our tanks. It looks natural, and if they accidentally swallow some, it passes through safely. Plus, beneficial bacteria colonize the sand, helping with the nitrogen cycle.

If you’re worried about sand, a bare-bottom tank works great too. It’s easier to clean, though it doesn’t look as nice.

Decorations and Hiding Spots: Give Them Privacy

Axolotls are shy creatures that need places to hide, especially during the day.

Great decoration ideas:

• PVC pipes (cheap and effective)
• Terracotta pots (break off any sharp edges)
• Aquarium-safe caves
• Driftwood (make sure it’s smooth)
• Live plants (more on this below)

Avoid:

• Decorations with small openings they could get stuck in
• Anything with sharp edges
• Decorations with holes smaller than your axolotl’s body

We arrange our decorations to create multiple hiding spots throughout the tank. Our axolotls have favorite spots they return to daily.

Plants: Live Is Best

You don’t need plants, but they make your tank healthier and more beautiful.

Best plants for axolotl tanks:

• Anubias (super hardy, low light)
• Java fern (attaches to decorations)
• Java moss (great for coverage)
• Amazon sword (provides good shade)
• Marimo moss balls (easy and fun)

These plants tolerate cold water and low light. They also help absorb nitrates, keeping your water cleaner between changes.

Avoid delicate plants that your axolotl might uproot or damage. These guys are like bulldozers sometimes!

Don’t use fake plants with rough edges. They can damage your axolotl’s delicate skin and gills.

Lighting: Less Is More

Axolotls don’t need special lighting. In fact, they prefer dim conditions.

Lighting tips:

• Use low-intensity lights or none at all
• Provide shaded areas with plants or decorations
• Consider a timer for 8-10 hours of light max
• Blue moonlights work great for viewing at night

We keep our axolotl tanks in naturally lit rooms and only turn on tank lights when we want to watch them. They seem much more comfortable this way.

Water Parameters: Test Regularly

Keeping your water chemistry right is crucial.

Target parameters:

• Temperature: 60-64°F
• pH: 6.5-8.0 (7.4-7.6 is ideal)
• Ammonia: 0 ppm
• Nitrite: 0 ppm
• Nitrate: below 20 ppm (lower is better)
• Water hardness: 7-14 GH

Get a good test kit. We use the API Master Test Kit and test our water weekly. It’s worth every penny.

Before adding an axolotl, cycle your tank for 4-6 weeks. This establishes beneficial bacteria that convert toxic ammonia into less harmful compounds.

Water Changes: Your Most Important Job

Even with great filtration, regular water changes are non-negotiable.

Our schedule:

• 20% water change weekly
• 30-40% water change if nitrates climb above 20 ppm

Always use dechlorinator! Tap water contains chlorine and chloramine that will harm your axolotl. We use Seachem Prime because it also detoxifies ammonia and nitrites temporarily.

Match the temperature of new water to the tank water. Sudden temperature swings stress axolotls out.

Water Conditioner and Treatments

Always have on hand:

• Dechlorinator (Prime or similar)
• Aquarium salt (for occasional salt baths if needed)
• Indian almond leaves (natural antibacterial properties)

Never use:

• Medications with formalin
• Medications with malachite green
• Any fish medication without researching if it’s axolotl-safe

Axolotls are sensitive to medications. When in doubt, consult an exotic vet or experienced axolotl keeper.

Air Stone: Optional But Nice

While not required, we like adding a small air stone to our axolotl tanks. It increases oxygen levels and creates gentle water movement without strong currents.

Place it away from hiding spots so your axolotl can choose to avoid it if they want.

Tank Location: Pick the Right Spot

Don’t just plop your tank anywhere.

Good locations:

• Away from direct sunlight (causes algae and temperature spikes)
• On a sturdy stand (water is heavy!)
• In a quiet area (reduces stress)
• Where you can easily maintain it

Avoid:

• Near heating vents
• In front of windows
• High-traffic areas with lots of noise

We keep our axolotl tanks in a guest room that stays naturally cool and quiet. They’re much more active and relaxed there.

Common Mistakes We’ve Seen (And Made!)

Mistake #1: Starting with a tank that’s too small. Upgrading later is expensive and stressful for everyone.

Mistake #2: Not cycling the tank first. Ammonia poisoning is deadly and completely preventable.

Mistake #3: Using gravel substrate. We’ve seen too many impaction cases. Just don’t risk it.

Mistake #4: Keeping the water too warm. Summer can be deadly without proper cooling.

Mistake #5: Adding tank mates. Most fish either nip at axolotl gills or get eaten. Keep axolotls with other axolotls only (and even then, watch for aggression).

Quick Shopping List

Here’s what you need before bringing your axolotl home:

• 30+ gallon tank
• Sponge filter or gentle canister filter
• Fine sand or plan for bare-bottom
• Water test kit
• Dechlorinator
• Thermometer
• Aquarium chiller or cooling plan
• Hiding spots (2-3 minimum)
• Optional: live plants, air stone

Budget around $300-600 for a proper setup, more if you need a chiller.

20 Quick FAQs: Clearing Up Common Axolotl Confusion

1. Can axolotls live with fish?
No. Fish either nip at axolotl gills or become expensive snacks. Keep axolotls only with other axolotls of similar size.

2. Do axolotls need a heater?
Absolutely not! Axolotls need COLD water. A heater would actually harm them. Most people need chillers, not heaters.

3. Can I hold my axolotl?
Only when necessary (like moving tanks). Their skin is delicate and your warm hands stress them out. They’re look-don’t-touch pets.

4. How often do axolotls eat?
Adults: every 2-3 days. Juveniles: once daily. They’re not grazers like fish, so don’t overfeed.

5. Can axolotls live in a bowl?
Never. They need at least 20 gallons (preferably 30+) with proper filtration. Bowls can’t support the nitrogen cycle.

6. Do axolotls need land area?
No! Axolotls are fully aquatic and never leave the water. Unlike frogs, they don’t need land platforms.

7. Why is my axolotl floating?
Usually from swallowing air while eating. It’s temporary. If it persists, check water parameters and consider fridging (ask experienced keepers first).

8. Can I use tap water?
Yes, but you MUST use dechlorinator first. Never add untreated tap water directly to the tank.

9. How long do axolotls live?
10-15 years with proper care. Some live even longer! They’re a long-term commitment.

10. Do axolotls need a filter running 24/7?
Yes. Constant filtration maintains water quality. Turning it off lets toxins build up quickly.

11. Can axolotls regenerate lost body parts?
Yes! They can regrow legs, gills, parts of their heart, and even portions of their brain. It’s amazing but takes weeks to months.

12. Why are my axolotl’s gills small or disappearing?
Usually poor water quality or too much current. Test your water immediately and reduce filter flow.

13. Do axolotls bite?
They might accidentally nip during feeding, but they have tiny teeth and it doesn’t hurt. They’re not aggressive.

14. Can axolotls see well?
Not really. They have poor eyesight and hunt mainly by smell. This is why they sometimes miss food right in front of them.

15. Is my axolotl sick or just stressed?
Common stress signs: curved tail, forward-pointed gills, refusing food, floating. Sick signs: white cotton-like growth, extreme lethargy, red skin patches. When in doubt, test water first.

16. Can I keep different color morphs together? Yes! Wild type, leucistic, golden, and other colors can live together peacefully as long as they’re similar sizes.

17. Do axolotls sleep? Yes, but not like we do. They rest motionless with eyes open (they have no eyelids). Usually more active at dawn and dusk.

18. Why is my axolotl’s poop white/stringy? Could be overfeeding or digestive issues. Fast them for 2-3 days. If it continues, they might be sick or have parasites.

19. Can axolotls live in a pond?
Only in very specific climates where water stays 60-68°F year-round and you can protect them from predators. Indoor tanks are much safer.

20. When will my axolotl morph into a salamander?
Healthy axolotls stay aquatic their whole lives. Morphing only happens under extreme stress or hormonal abnormalities and usually shortens their lifespan significantly.

Final Thoughts

Setting up an axolotl tank takes effort and investment, but watching these amazing creatures thrive makes it all worthwhile. They’re not the easiest pets, but they’re definitely one of the most rewarding.

The key things to remember: keep it cool, keep it clean, and give them space. Get those three things right, and you’re already ahead of most beginner axolotl owners.

Take your time setting up the tank properly before adding your axolotl. A cycled tank with the right temperature is the foundation for a healthy, happy pet that could live 10-15 years.

Got questions? Drop them in the comments! We’re here to help fellow axolotl enthusiasts avoid the mistakes we made when we started.