When Your Axolotl Needs Help Fast

Axolotls (Ambystoma mexicanum) can bounce back from a lot, and they can even regrow lost body parts. But they still get into trouble sometimes, and when they do, you need to act fast.

Here’s the problem: Axolotls can’t tell you when something’s wrong. By the time you see symptoms, things might already be bad. That’s why you need to know what to watch for and what to do about it.

This guide shows you exactly how to handle the most common axolotl emergencies. You’ll learn what to do right away to keep your pet alive until you can get professional help.

Your Emergency Kit: What You Need on Hand

Get These Supplies Before You Need Them

Every axolotl owner should have these things ready to go. You can’t always run to the store at 2 AM.

For water problems:

• API Freshwater Master Test Kit (tests ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH)
• Seachem Prime (removes ammonia and nitrite from water)
• Seachem StressGuard (helps with stress and slime coat)
• Aquarium salt (plain, no iodine or additives)
• 5-10 gallons of aged, dechlorinated water
• Indian almond leaves or alder cones (kills bacteria naturally)

Medical stuff:

• Methylene blue solution (treats fungus and bacteria)
• Tea tree oil bath solution (natural antiseptic)
• Plastic tub with lid for fridging
• Digital thermometer (quick-reading)
• Turkey baster or large pipette (moves weak axolotls safely)
• Hospital tank (10-20 gallons, bare bottom)
• Ice packs and heating pad (controls temperature)

To track what’s happening:

• Camera or smartphone (take photos of symptoms)
• Notebook for writing down symptoms and treatments
• List of exotic vets in your area
• Water testing log

Finding a Vet Who Knows Axolotls

Where to look:

• Search “exotic vet amphibians” and your city
• Contact Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV)
• Ask local reptile clubs
• Call your nearest aquarium or zoo
• Save the contact info where you can find it fast

Most regular vets don’t know much about axolotls. Find a specialist now, before you need one.

Emergency #1: Ammonia or Nitrite Poisoning

What It Looks Like

Ammonia and nitrite build up from poop and uneaten food when your filter isn’t working right. This stuff is deadly.

Signs of ammonia poisoning:

• Bright red or purple gills
• Gasping at the top of the water
• Can’t balance, floating upside down
• Tail curls up
• Won’t move or respond when you tap the tank
• Swimming crazy or thrashing around
• Cloudy eyes or slime coat falling off
• Red burns on the skin

Signs of nitrite poisoning:

• Brown or gray gills
• Fast gill movement, hard time breathing
• Weak, can’t stay upright
• Won’t eat
• Just sits on the bottom

What to Do Right Now

Step 1: Test the water (2 minutes)

• Use your test kit to check ammonia and nitrite
• Anything above 0 ppm means you need to act
• Over 1 ppm can kill your axolotl

Step 2: Change all the water (10-15 minutes)

• Move your axolotl to a container with clean water (same temperature)
• Dump out all the tank water
• Refill with new water treated with double dose of Prime
• Make sure the temperature matches exactly
• If you don’t have aged water, use Prime to make tap water safe

Step 3: Keep in a tub (24-72 hours)

• Put your axolotl in a bare container
• Use only treated water
• Temperature: 60-64°F (best for recovery)
• Change 100% of the water twice a day
• Don’t feed during this time
• Add an Indian almond leaf

Step 4: Salt bath if it’s really bad (optional)

• Mix 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon
• Leave in for 15 minutes max
• Watch closely – if it thrashes more, take it out
• Rinse in fresh treated water after
• Salt helps repair the protective slime layer

Fixing Your Tank

Before putting your axolotl back:

• Find out what caused the ammonia (too much food, dead fish, broken filter)
• Test water showing 0 ppm ammonia and nitrite for 2 days straight
• Add good bacteria (Seachem Stability, Tetra SafeStart)
• Feed less for a while
• Test water every day for a week

How long until better: Mild cases get better in 24-48 hours. Bad poisoning might take 5-7 days of tubbing before gills look normal and behavior returns.

Emergency #2: Too Hot – Heat Stress

Why Temperature Matters

Axolotls need cold water, below 70°F. Over 74°F stresses them out badly. Over 78°F can kill them because there’s less oxygen and their metabolism goes crazy.

Signs your axolotl is too hot:

• Breathing fast (gills moving quickly)
• Very pale color
• Floating at the top gasping
• Won’t eat
• Acting tired or hyper
• Tail curls
• Gills getting smaller or damaged
• Bacteria infections show up fast

Temperature danger zones:

• 70-72°F: Starting to stress, not eating much
• 73-74°F: Uncomfortable
• 75-77°F: Serious stress, cool down NOW
• 78°F+: Life-threatening

How to Cool Down Fast

Step 1: Drop the temperature (first 30 minutes)

• Float sealed bags or bottles of ice in the tank
• Put frozen water bottles next to the tank (not in the water)
• Point a fan at the water surface
• Turn off lights and heater
• Close blinds, move tank away from windows
• DON’T put ice directly in the water (shock)

Step 2: Cool slowly

• Lower temperature by 2-3°F per hour max
• Get down to 60-64°F
• Use thermometer to check every 15-30 minutes
• Cooling too fast is also bad

Step 3: Add more oxygen

• Add an air stone or make more surface movement
• Warm water has less oxygen
• Your axolotl needs extra air during recovery

Step 4: Watch for infections

• Heat stress weakens their immune system
• Look for white fuzzy stuff (fungus)
• Look for red spots or sores (bacteria)
• Might need salt baths or methylene blue

Stop It From Happening Again

Long-term solutions:

• Get an aquarium chiller (best option)
• Use clip-on fans (cheaper temporary fix)
• Freeze water bottles every night
• Keep tank in the coldest room
• Away from windows and heat sources
• Try basement or room with AC
• Have a backup plan for power outages and heat waves

How long until better: Mild heat stress fixes in 24 hours once temperature is stable. Bad overheating might damage gills and take weeks to heal.

Emergency #3: Can’t Poop – Impaction

What Impaction Means

Impaction happens when your axolotl eats gravel, rocks, or something too big to pass through. It gets stuck in the gut and can kill them.

Signs of blockage:

• Belly super swollen and bloated
• Floating or can’t sink (gas trapped inside)
• Hasn’t pooped in 5+ days
• Won’t eat
• Throwing up
• Sitting hunched with arched back
• You can see or feel a hard lump in the stomach
• Acting tired and uncomfortable

What causes it:

• Eating gravel (most common)
• Swallowing big rocks while eating
• Eating decorations or fake plants
• Food pieces too large
• Swallowing parts of filter or equipment

How to Fix Impaction

Step 1: Stop feeding

• Don’t give any food until the blockage passes
• More food just makes it worse

Step 2: Put in the fridge (48-72 hours to start)

• Move to container with treated water
• Slowly cool to 40-45°F over 4-6 hours (fridge temperature)
• Cold slows everything down, reduces stress
• Change 100% water daily with same cold temperature
• Keep it dark (use towel or opaque container)
• Check twice a day for poop

Step 3: Epsom salt bath (if nothing happens after 2 days)

• Mix 2-3 teaspoons Epsom salt per gallon
• Put in separate bath container
• Soak for 15-20 minutes
• Epsom salt works like a laxative
• Do this daily until blockage passes
• Put back in fridge between baths

Step 4: Gentle belly rub (only if you’ve done this before)

• Wet your hands first
• Very gently rub belly downward
• Use almost no pressure
• Only if your axolotl doesn’t freak out
• Stop if it shows distress

When to get a vet:

• No poop after 7 days in fridge
• Getting more bloated or in pain
• Cloaca prolapse (tissue sticking out from butt)
• Throwing up or signs of infection
• X-ray can show where blockage is and how bad

After the Blockage Passes

Once it finally poops:

• Keep in bare-bottom tank forever
• Slowly warm back to normal temperature over 24 hours
• Wait 2 days before feeding anything small
• Start with soft food (bloodworms, tiny earthworm pieces)
• Get back to normal feeding over 1-2 weeks

How to prevent it:

• Take out ALL gravel right now
• Use only bare-bottom tanks or very fine sand (less than 1mm)
• If using sand, make layer 2+ inches deep
• Feed with tongs so they don’t gulp substrate
• Food should be smaller than their head
• Never use gravel again

How long until better: Light impaction clears in 3-5 days. Bad blockage might take 7-10 days or need surgery.

Emergency #4: White Fuzzy Stuff – Fungus

Spotting Fungal Infections

Fungus looks like white cotton balls growing on skin, gills, or wounds. It’s common, but if it spreads to the gills or gets inside, it can kill them.

What fungus looks like:

• White fluffy patches
• Growing on gills, body, legs, or tail
• Usually starts after injury or stress
• Might start small and spread fast
• Looks fuzzy or cloudy
• Axolotl might rub against things (itchy)
• Acting tired if infection is advanced

When fungus grows:

• Bad water quality (high ammonia, nitrite)
• After injuries or wounds
• Stress from temperature changes
• Weak immune system
• Crowded or dirty tank

Treating Fungus

Step 1: Separate to hospital tank

• Use bare-bottom container
• Fill with treated water, same temperature
• Change 100% water daily
• No gravel or decorations (they hold spores)

Step 2: Salt bath (daily for 5-10 days)

• Mix 2-3 teaspoons aquarium salt per gallon in separate container
• Soak for 10-15 minutes daily
• Salt kills fungus
• Watch for stress (take out if thrashing badly)
• Rinse in fresh water after

Step 3: Tea tree oil bath (other option)

• Use fish-safe tea tree oil product (right dilution)
• Follow the bottle instructions exactly
• Usually 10-15 minute baths
• Works great on fungus
• DON’T use pure essential oils

Step 4: Methylene blue (for bad infections)

• Add 1-2 drops per gallon to hospital tank water
• Water turns blue
• Leave in blue water for 24 hours
• Change water and add more blue daily for 3-5 days
• Works on fungus and bacteria
• Stains stuff (use throwaway container)

Step 5: Indian almond leaves

• Add 1-2 leaves to hospital tank
• Natural fungus and bacteria killer
• Water turns slightly yellow (that’s normal)
• Replace every 3-4 days
• Safe to use long-term

For Stubborn Fungus

If it won’t go away:

• Change water twice a day
• Keep water perfect (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite)
• Keep cool (60-64°F) to slow fungus growth
• Might need vet-prescribed stronger meds
• Treat until fungus is gone plus 2-3 more days

Treating gills:

• Gills are delicate
• Use weaker salt, shorter time
• Watch breathing closely during treatment
• Fungus on gills is serious – get vet help if not improving

How long until better: Light fungus clears in 5-7 days. Bad or inside infections might take 2-3 weeks.

Emergency #5: Cuts and Lost Body Parts

Checking Injuries

Axolotls get hurt from tank mates, equipment, bad handling, or stress. They can regrow almost anything, but you need to stop infection first.

Types of injuries:

• Bites: From other axolotls, torn edges, missing chunks
• Lost limbs: Missing legs, gills, or tail pieces
• Cuts: Clean slices from sharp stuff
• Punctures: Deep holes
• Scrapes: Skin rubbed off from rough surfaces
• Prolapse: Organs sticking out

Fixing Injuries

Step 1: Separate right away

• Take out of main tank to stop more attacks
• Put in hospital tank with clean water
• No gravel or decorations (less infection risk)

Step 2: Look at how bad it is

• Take photos to track healing
• See if it’s bleeding (red in water)
• Check for exposed bone or insides
• See if organs are sticking out
• Note size and depth

Step 3: Keep water super clean

• Change 100% water every day (must do this)
• Use only aged, dechlorinated water
• Temperature: 60-64°F (helps healing)
• Clean conditions are everything
• Test water every day

Step 4: Salt bath (stops infection)

• 1-2 teaspoons aquarium salt per gallon
• 10-15 minute baths daily for first week
• Reduces bacteria risk
• Helps regrow slime coat
• Keep doing until wound looks healthy

Step 5: Add antibacterial stuff to water

• Put Indian almond leaves in hospital tank
• Try StressGuard for slime coat
• DON’T put human antibiotics on wound
• Don’t use cleaners not made for amphibians

Specific Injury Help

Lost leg:

• Axolotls completely regrow lost limbs (2-6 months)
• Just keep water super clean
• Nothing special needed besides infection prevention
• Feed normally (appetite usually fine)
• New limb grows slowly from stump

Damaged gills:

• Gills grow back if stalks are still there
• Keep water cool and add air
• Don’t stress it more
• Takes 3-6 weeks to fully regrow
• Watch breathing while healing

Tail damage:

• Tails grow back completely
• Stop fungus from starting
• Might grow back slightly different
• Full regrowth takes 1-3 months

Deep wounds or organs out:

• Usually needs a vet
• Keep in cold water (fridging might help – 40-45°F)
• Might need surgery
• Really bad wounds need vet within 24 hours

Watching for Infection

Signs of infection:

• White fluffy growth (fungus) – treat with salt or methylene blue
• Red spreading from wound (bacteria) – change water more, call vet
• Black dead tissue – bad infection, needs antibiotics
• Swelling or pus – needs vet antibiotics

How long until better: Small wounds heal in 1-2 weeks. Big injuries and lost limbs fully regrow over 2-6 months with good care.

Emergency #6: Can’t Stop Floating

What’s Wrong With Floating

Weird floating means something’s seriously wrong – could be gas buildup or organ problems. Sometimes it’s not serious, but sudden floating needs attention.

Types of floating:

• Stuck at top: Can’t sink at all
• Sideways: Leaning to one side
• Upside down: Belly-up
• Uncontrolled bobbing: Can’t stay in one spot

Why they float:

• Gas from blockage or constipation
• Swallowed air while eating at surface
• Infection or organs failing
• Bad water making swim bladder wonky
• Too much food causing gas
• Brain or nerve problems

Fixing Floating

Step 1: Figure out why

• Test water (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH)
• Check for bloating or swollen belly (could be impaction)
• Think about feeding (too much? big meal recently?)
• Look for other symptoms (tired? gill problems? wounds?)

Step 2: Put in fridge (works best)

• Move to container with treated water
• Slowly cool to 40-45°F over 4-6 hours
• Cold helps release trapped gas
• Slows metabolism, less stress
• Keep for 24-48 hours to start
• Change 100% water daily

Step 3: Lower water level (helps right away)

• If stuck at surface, lower water to 4-6 inches deep
• Lets them rest on bottom while reaching air
• Less stress from struggling
• Add a hide so they feel safe

Step 4: Stop feeding

• No food for 3-5 days until floating stops
• Prevents more gas
• Gives gut time to clear

Step 5: Epsom salt bath (if impaction suspected)

• 2-3 teaspoons Epsom salt per gallon
• 15-20 minute baths daily
• Helps with constipation and gas
• Keep doing until they poop normally

Different Causes

Air from surface feeding:

• Put food underwater before giving it
• Use tongs to offer food below surface
• Feed in deeper water
• Usually fixes itself in 24-48 hours as air passes

Impaction floating:

• Follow impaction treatment (fridging + Epsom salt)
• See Emergency #3 for full steps
• Most serious cause, takes longest

Water quality floating:

• Change 100% water right away
• Keep in clean water
• Fix tank filtration or cycling problems
• Usually better within 24 hours in clean water

How long until better: Air-related floating fixes in 1-3 days. Impaction floating might take 7-10 days. Still floating after 2 weeks needs vet X-ray.

Emergency #7: Won’t Eat

When Not Eating Becomes Serious

Axolotls can go weeks without food, but long-term not eating with weight loss means something’s really wrong.

Emergency food refusal signs:

• No eating for 2+ weeks
• Can see spine, sunken belly
• Weak and tired
• Other symptoms too (floating, color change, stress)
• Getting worse fast

Why they stop eating:

• Bad water (most common)
• Too hot
• Impaction or blockage
• Internal parasites or infection
• Mouth injury or broken jaw
• Stress from tank mates or environment

Getting Them to Eat Again

Step 1: Fix the real problem

• Test and fix water
• Make sure temperature is 60-68°F
• Rule out impaction or sickness
• Separate from mean tank mates
• Add hides to reduce stress

Step 2: Make them want food

• Wave food in front of face (movement helps)
• Use live food (earthworms, blackworms) – movement triggers feeding
• Try different foods (they get picky sometimes)
• Feed in dim light or evening (more natural)
• Hand-feed with tongs so they notice

Step 3: Adjust temperature

• Brief cooling to 60°F might trigger appetite
• Warmer water (up to 68°F max) speeds metabolism
• Go back to perfect 64-66°F after they eat

Step 4: Force feeding (last resort for really bad cases)

• Only if hasn’t eaten 3+ weeks and dying
• Only try if you know what you’re doing
• Hold gently in wet hands
• Carefully open mouth with soft tool
• Put in small, soft food (bit of earthworm)
• Let swallow naturally – don’t force
• Very stressful – only for emergencies

Step 5: Get a vet

• Lost 15-20% or more weight
• Might have internal parasites (long-term not eating)
• Can see tumors or lumps
• Might have metabolic or organ disease

Feeding During Recovery

Start feeding again slowly:

• Begin with tiny portions (one small earthworm piece)
• Feed every 2-3 days at first
• Slowly increase portion over 2 weeks
• Watch that they accept and digest it
• Back to normal schedule once appetite returns

Good recovery foods:

• Live blackworms (tasty, easy to digest)
• Small earthworm pieces (nutritious, lots of protein)
• Live daphnia (triggers hunting)
• Skip pellets until appetite fully back

How long until better: Once you fix the cause, appetite usually returns in 3-7 days. Really bad cases might take 2-3 weeks.

Emergency #8: Seizures and Twitching

Spotting Brain Problems

Brain symptoms mean serious problems with the brain or nerves – could be toxins or metabolic issues.

Brain emergency signs:

• Seizures (violent thrashing, convulsions)
• Swimming in circles or spinning
• Can’t balance or coordinate
• Shaking or twitching
• Paralyzed or can’t move legs
• Doesn’t respond to anything
• Eyes rolling or stuck in weird position
• Gasping or weird breathing

What causes brain problems:

• Ammonia or nitrite poisoning (most common)
• Heavy metal poisoning (copper, zinc from pipes)
• Too much medication
• Bad temperature shock
• Not enough oxygen
• Internal parasites in nervous system
• Brain tumors
• Genetic or metabolic disorders

Emergency Brain Care

Step 1: Get out of danger

• Test water for ammonia, nitrite right away (likely cause)
• Move to container with clean, treated water
• Remove any toxins or medications
• Make sure enough oxygen (air stone)

Step 2: Keep in clean water

• Change 100% water twice daily
• Temperature: 60-64°F (cool but steady)
• Dim light, quiet (less stimulation)
• Shallow water (4-6 inches) if balance is off
• No gravel or sharp stuff (prevent injury during episodes)

Step 3: Put in fridge for ongoing seizures

• If seizures continue, slowly cool to 40-45°F
• Cold reduces what the body needs
• Slows damage from toxins
• Keep there until symptoms stop

Step 4: DON’T try to hold them down

• During seizures, keep in safe container
• Pad sides with soft material if thrashing hard
• Let seizure end naturally
• Holding them causes more stress and injury

Step 5: Call vet immediately

• Brain symptoms need urgent professional help
• Might need injectable meds
• Blood work can find metabolic causes
• X-rays rule out tumors or structural problems

Long-Term Care

If symptoms keep happening:

• Keep water perfect forever
• Avoid any stress or changes
• Might need long-term medication (vet prescribed)
• Some brain damage might be permanent
• You might need to decide about quality of life

How long until better: Toxin-caused symptoms might clear in 48-72 hours if caught early. Bad ammonia burns or other causes might cause permanent damage.

When You Have to Let Go – Euthanasia

Knowing When It’s Time

Sometimes even your best efforts aren’t enough. Making the choice to end suffering is the last kind thing you can do for your pet.

When to consider euthanasia:

• Bad infection causing obvious suffering
• Massive injury with no chance of healing
• Terminal cancer or tumors stopping normal life
• Non-stop seizures or brain damage preventing normal behavior
• Complete organ failure
• Won’t eat for a long time and getting worse
• Quality of life is terrible with no treatment options

Quality of life questions:

• Can it do normal things? (swim, rest)
• Is it in obvious pain or distress?
• Are basic needs met? (eating, breathing, moving)
• Is it getting worse with no improvement despite treatment?
• Does it have normal moments or constant suffering?

Humane Methods

Vet euthanasia (STRONGLY RECOMMENDED):

• Most humane and peaceful
• Sedation then overdose of anesthetic
• Painless and quick
• You can say goodbye
• Vet confirms death

At-home euthanasia (only if vet not available):

• Two-step process required
• Step 1: Knock unconscious – MS-222 or clove oil overdose
• Step 2: Pithing or freezing while deeply knocked out ensures death
• DON’T freeze while awake (causes suffering)
• Research proper amounts and methods before trying

Wrong methods to NEVER use:

• Freezing while awake (extremely painful)
• Hitting with something (inhumane, traumatic)
• Cutting head off while awake (causes pain)
• Suffocation or drying out (long suffering)

After Death

After euthanasia:

• Confirm death (no gill movement, no heartbeat)
• Take time to grieve and say goodbye
• Think about memorial or burial
• Wrap body respectfully before disposal
• Clean and disinfect all equipment

Getting emotional support after euthanasia is normal and healthy. Online amphibian groups often provide kind spaces for grieving.

Keeping Stress Low During Emergencies

Handling Without Causing More Stress

Sick or injured axolotls get extra stressed from handling, which makes things worse.

Low-stress handling:

• Never grab or squeeze the body
• Use soft net or hands cupped underneath
• Keep handling under 30 seconds when you can
• Wet hands completely before touching
• Move in container of water instead of air
• Don’t touch delicate gills

Good recovery environment:

• Dim lights (cover tank sides if needed)
• Quiet area away from vibrations or noise
• Hiding spots (PVC pipe, ceramic hide)
• Bare bottom for cleanliness
• Stable temperature
• Don’t disturb much during observation

Stopping Emergencies Before They Start

Daily Health Checks

Look at every day:

• Gill color and condition (healthy pink/red, fluffy)
• Activity level and swimming
• Appetite and feeding response
• Body condition and weight
• Skin appearance (smooth, no sores or fungus)
• Poop production (regular bowel movements)

Weekly care:

• Test water (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH)
• 25-30% water change
• Check and clean filter
• Check temperature
• Make sure equipment works

Monthly check:

• Weigh your axolotl (track weight trends)
• Take photos for comparison
• Deep clean tank parts
• Replace filter media if needed
• Review diet and adjust if needed

Early Warning Signs

Small symptoms needing attention:

• Slightly curled tail tip (early stress sign)
• Smaller gills or fraying
• Less appetite (missing 1-2 feedings)
• Pale or darker color
• Sitting at surface more than usual
• Slightly cloudy eyes or skin

When early signs show up:

• Test water right away
• Think about recent changes (feeding, temperature, maintenance)
• Watch more closely
• Get emergency supplies ready
• Take photos of symptoms
• Be ready to do more if symptoms get worse

Common Questions

How do I know if my axolotl emergency is life-threatening?

Life-threatening means: can’t breathe (gasping, brown/purple gills), bad bloating with floating, temperatures above 75°F, bad wounds with lots of bleeding, seizures or can’t coordinate at all, ammonia over 1 ppm, and won’t eat for 3+ weeks with weight loss.

Can I use human medications on my axolotl?

No, never use human meds unless a exotic vet specifically says to. Amphibians are very different from humans, and most medications are toxic to axolotls. Only use products made for aquariums or vet-prescribed treatments.

Should I take my axolotl to an emergency vet?

Most general emergency vets don’t know about amphibians. Better to stabilize at home using these steps, then talk to exotic vet during normal hours. Life-threatening trauma, seizures, or suspected organ failure need emergency care even if general vet is only option.

How long can an axolotl survive in emergency conditions?

Axolotls are tough. They can survive several hours in bad water if caught quickly, weeks without food if otherwise healthy, and days with injuries as long as infection stopped. But ammonia poisoning and bad heat stress can kill within hours if not fixed.

What is fridging and when should I do it?

Fridging means keeping your axolotl in refrigerator at 40-45°F. Use for: impaction, bad heat stress, some infections, after surgery, and to slow progression of serious illness. Always cool slowly over 4-6 hours, never suddenly. Change water daily during fridging.

Can axolotls feel pain?

Yes, axolotls have pain receptors and nervous systems that experience pain. They don’t show pain like mammals do, but injuries and illness cause suffering. Fixing emergencies quickly reduces pain and distress.

How do I perform emergency water changes safely?

Use aged, dechlorinated water matched exactly to current tank temperature (within 1-2°F). Remove axolotl to container, change water, return axolotl. For real emergencies with ammonia poisoning, treat tap water with double-dose Prime rather than waiting. Always use liquid dechlorinator, never untreated tap water.

What if I can’t find an exotic vet in my area?

Many exotic vets offer video consultations for assessment and treatment advice. Online amphibian groups and forums often have experienced keepers who can guide emergency care. Take photos of symptoms and water test results for any remote consultation.

Is it normal for axolotls to float sometimes?

Brief floating after feeding (especially at surface) can be normal as they might swallow air. This usually fixes within a few hours. Floating lasting 12+ hours, with bloating, won’t eat, or can’t sink means emergency needing treatment.

What’s the difference between salt bath and salt in hospital tank?

Salt baths are strong (1-3 teaspoons per gallon), short (10-20 minutes) treatments for targeted healing. Adding salt to hospital tank uses weaker amount (1 teaspoon per gallon) for continuous exposure. Baths are more intense; tank treatment is gentler and longer-term.

How often should I change water during emergency care?

During treatment, change 100% water daily, sometimes twice daily for bad cases. Keep doing daily changes until symptoms clear, then slowly reduce to every-other-day, then back to normal. Clean water is everything for healing.

Emergency Contacts

Building Your Help Network

Keep where you can find it:

• Local exotic vet contact and emergency hours
• 24-hour emergency vet (even if not specialized)
• Online axolotl forums for urgent advice
• Experienced axolotl keeper contacts
• Nearest aquarium supply store with emergency hours

Helpful online resources:

• Caudata.org (amphibian care and health forum)
• r/axolotls (Reddit group with experienced keepers)
• Axolotl Facebook groups (local and international)
• Academic vet resources on amphibian medicine

Final Thoughts

Axolotl emergencies need quick thinking, the right supplies, and calm action. These salamanders are tough with amazing healing abilities, but fast help during critical situations makes a big difference.

The most important prep steps: keep an emergency kit with needed supplies, know water parameters at all times, have aged water and treatments ready, find exotic vet care before crisis hits, and learn to spot early warning signs before things become life-threatening.

Remember that prevention through good care is the best emergency medicine. Most critical situations come from water quality issues, temperature stress, or wrong substrate all preventable through attentive care and proper tank setup.

When emergencies happen despite your best efforts, these steps provide proven first aid to stabilize your axolotl. While this guide gives thorough emergency response information, it doesn’t replace professional vet care for serious or ongoing conditions.

By understanding these critical situations and staying prepared, you can respond fast when seconds count, giving your axolotl the best possible chance for recovery and a long, healthy life.