You’re at the pet store buying axolotl food. The employee suggests mealworms—they’re cheap, easy to store, and lots of reptiles eat them. You grab a container thinking you found a convenient food option.

But should axolotls actually eat mealworms?

The short answer: Yes, they can eat them. But they probably shouldn’t.

Why Mealworms Seem Like a Good Idea

Let’s start with why people try feeding mealworms to axolotls.

They’re everywhere: Every pet store carries mealworms. You can buy them live, dried, or frozen. Super convenient.

They’re cheap: A container of 50 mealworms costs less than a package of frozen bloodworms.

Easy storage: Keep them in the fridge. They last for weeks. No special equipment needed.

Other aquatic pets eat them: Turtles, some fish, and other amphibians eat mealworms regularly.

They wiggle and attract attention: The movement triggers your axolotl’s feeding response.

So what’s the problem?

The Problems With Mealworms

Despite being convenient, mealworms have several issues for axolotls.

Problem 1: Hard Exoskeleton

Mealworms have a tough outer shell made of chitin. This exoskeleton is difficult to digest.

What happens: Your axolotl swallows the mealworm whole. The hard shell takes a long time to break down. Sometimes it doesn’t digest fully and comes out the other end basically intact.

The risk: In some cases, the hard shell can cause impaction—a blockage in the digestive system. This is a serious health emergency requiring immediate treatment.

Young or small axolotls: The risk is even higher. Their digestive systems are smaller and weaker, making impaction more likely.

Problem 2: Poor Nutritional Value

Compared to better food options, mealworms don’t offer much nutrition.

Mealworms Nutrition

Nutrient	Value	Notes
Protein	20%	High protein, can be hard to digest
Fat	13%	Very high fat
Fiber	2%	Chitin shell adds fiber
Moisture	62%	Low moisture for axolotls

Earthworms Nutrition

Nutrient	Value	Notes
Protein	10–15%	Ideal protein range
Fat	2%	Low fat
Fiber	1%	Easy to digest
Moisture	80–85%	Excellent hydration

Bloodworms Nutrition

Nutrient	Value	Notes
Protein	5–7%	Low protein
Fat	2–5%	Moderate fat
Fiber	<1%	Very low fiber
Moisture	88%	Very high moisture

Wait, mealworms have more protein? Yes, but it’s the wrong kind of breakdown for aquatic animals.

The fat content is too high: That 13% fat is excessive for axolotls. Regular mealworm feeding can lead to fatty liver disease and obesity.

Moisture matters: Axolotls are aquatic. They need high-moisture foods. Mealworms are relatively dry compared to earthworms or bloodworms.

Problem 3: They Bite Back

Live mealworms can actually injure your axolotl.

How it happens: A mealworm gets swallowed but isn’t dead yet. Inside the axolotl’s stomach or mouth, it uses its mandibles to bite at the soft tissue.

The damage: Internal irritation, mouth injuries, or digestive tract damage. While not super common, it happens enough to be a real concern.

Preventing this: Some people kill the mealworm before feeding (crush the head). But at that point, you’re adding extra steps to an already questionable food choice.

Problem 4: Risk of Parasites

Mealworms can carry parasites that transfer to your axolotl.

Store-bought mealworms: Usually fed a diet of grain and produce. If these foods are contaminated or if the mealworms come from poor conditions, parasites can develop.

Wild-caught mealworms: Absolutely never feed these. Wild insects carry pesticides, parasites, and diseases.

The safer alternatives: Earthworms from bait shops or your garden (pesticide-free areas) have lower parasite risk and are nutritionally better anyway.

Problem 5: Addictive Behavior

Some axolotls become picky eaters after regularly eating mealworms.

Why this happens: The high fat content makes mealworms tasty. Your axolotl starts preferring them over healthier options.

The problem: You try to feed earthworms (better nutrition), but your axolotl refuses and waits for mealworms. You’ve created a picky eater with poor nutrition.

Breaking the habit: Stop mealworms completely. Your axolotl will eventually eat the healthy food when hungry enough, but it takes patience.

Foods That Work Better Than Mealworms

Instead of mealworms, feed your axolotl these proven options.

Food Type	Why It’s Better	How Often
Earthworms	Perfect nutrition, soft body (easy digestion), high moisture, no hard shell	Primary food – 2-3 times per week for adults
Nightcrawlers	Same as earthworms but larger, great for adult axolotls	Primary food – 2-3 times per week for adults
Blackworms	Small, soft, nutritious, great for juveniles	Daily for juveniles, occasional treat for adults
Bloodworms	Soft, easy to find frozen, good nutrition	Supplement 1-2 times per week
Axolotl Pellets	Balanced nutrition, convenient, designed for axolotls	2-3 times per week if they accept them
Salmon Pellets	High protein, good nutrition, convenient	2-3 times per week for adults

The pattern: The best foods are soft-bodied, high-moisture, and specifically suited to aquatic carnivores.

When Mealworms Might Be Acceptable

There are a few situations where mealworms could work as an emergency backup.

Scenario 1: Nothing else available You ran out of regular food. Stores are closed. You have mealworms from another pet. Feeding a few mealworms once won’t kill your axolotl.

Better approach: Always keep backup food. Frozen bloodworms last months in the freezer. Quality pellets last even longer in the pantry.

Scenario 2: Occasional treat (rarely) Once every month or two, a single mealworm as variety won’t cause problems in healthy adult axolotls.

Important: This means genuinely rare—not weekly, not even every two weeks. Occasional means you barely do it.

Scenario 3: Mixing with better foods Some people chop mealworms and mix them with earthworm pieces to add variety without making mealworms the main food.

Reality check: If you’re going to this much effort, just feed earthworms alone. You’re not gaining anything significant.

How to Feed Mealworms Safely (If You Must)

If you decide to feed mealworms despite the warnings, minimize the risks.

Choose small mealworms: Regular mealworms are smaller and softer than giant/superworms. The smaller exoskeleton is slightly easier to digest.

Never feed superworms: These are larger with even tougher shells. Much higher impaction risk.

Kill them first: Crush the head before feeding. This prevents the “biting from inside” problem.

Feed in moderation: One or two mealworms maximum. Never make them a staple food.

Only feed healthy adult axolotls: Never give mealworms to juveniles under 4 months, sick axolotls, or ones with previous digestive problems.

Monitor closely: Watch for signs of digestive issues after feeding—bloating, refusing food the next day, unusual poop, lethargy.

Provide alternatives immediately: If your axolotl has trouble digesting mealworms, switch to softer foods right away.

Signs Your Axolotl Can’t Handle Mealworms

Watch for these red flags after feeding mealworms.

Bloating: The belly swells larger than normal and stays that way for days.

Floating issues: Can’t stay on the bottom, floats uncontrollably due to digestive gas buildup.

Refusing next meal: Normally hungry axolotl suddenly isn’t interested in food.

Vomiting: Spits up the mealworm or other food. This means the digestive system is overwhelmed.

Constipation: No poop for several days after eating mealworms.

Unusual poop: Poop that looks like it contains undigested mealworm parts (you’ll see the hard shell pieces).

Lethargy: More sluggish than normal, hiding constantly.

If you see these signs: Stop mealworms immediately. If symptoms persist for more than 2-3 days, consult a vet who handles exotic pets.

What Other Owners Say

“Tried mealworms with my adult axolotl. He ate them fine but got bloated for two days. Switched back to earthworms and never had that problem again.”

“Fed mealworms regularly thinking they were fine. My axolotl became picky and refused earthworms. Took three weeks of tough love to get him eating properly again.”

“My juvenile axolotl got impacted from one superworm. Emergency vet visit. Never feeding any kind of mealworm again.”

“Use mealworms maybe once a month as a treat. Haven’t had problems, but I also make sure earthworms are the main food.”

“Bought mealworms because they were cheap. Realized fast that earthworms from a bait shop cost about the same and work way better.”

The common thread? Most people who try mealworms either have problems or realize better options exist.

The Cost Comparison Myth

One reason people choose mealworms is thinking they’re cheaper. Let’s check the math.

Mealworms: $5 for 50 mealworms = $0.10 each

Earthworms from bait shop: $3-4 for 24 worms = $0.12-0.16 each

Nightcrawlers: $4-5 for 12 large worms = $0.33-0.42 each

The difference: Mealworms are slightly cheaper per item, but the health risks and poor nutrition make them a bad bargain.

What you save in money, you risk in vet bills if impaction or other problems develop.

Better approach: Spend the extra few cents per feeding and give your axolotl proper food.

Special Cases: Superworms and Other Worm Types

Since we’re talking about mealworms, let’s address similar foods.

Superworms (Giant Mealworms): Even worse than regular mealworms. Bigger, tougher shell, higher impaction risk. Don’t feed these to axolotls.

Waxworms: Very high fat content (even more than mealworms). Only use as extremely rare treats. Highly addictive due to fat content.

Butterworms: Similar problems to waxworms. Too fatty, can cause picky eating.

Phoenix worms (Black Soldier Fly larvae): Softer than mealworms, better calcium ratio. Occasionally acceptable but not ideal. Earthworms still better.

The pattern: If it’s sold as reptile food, it’s probably not ideal for aquatic amphibians like axolotls.

The Bottom Line

Can axolotls eat mealworms? Yes, they physically can swallow and digest them.

Should they eat mealworms? No, better options exist.

Main problems:

• Hard exoskeleton causes digestion issues and impaction risk
• Too much fat, not enough moisture
• Can bite from inside
• Creates picky eating habits
• Nutritionally inferior to earthworms

Better alternatives:

• Earthworms (best overall food)
• Nightcrawlers (for larger axolotls)
• Bloodworms (frozen, as supplement)
• Blackworms (for juveniles)
• Quality pellets (convenient backup)

If you feed them anyway:

• Only to healthy adults
• Very rarely (once a month maximum)
• Small mealworms only (never superworms)
• Kill them first
• Watch for digestive problems

The honest take: Mealworms are convenient for YOU, not good for your axolotl. The convenience isn’t worth the health risks.

Spend an extra dollar, go to a bait shop, and buy earthworms. Your axolotl gets better nutrition, easier digestion, and no impaction risk. That’s the smart choice.

Don’t let convenience override good care. Your axolotl can’t tell you when something’s wrong with its digestion until it’s already a problem. Feed the right foods from the start.