After feeding axolotls for over 10 years, I’ve learned that proper nutrition makes the difference between an axolotl that merely survives and one that thrives. Get the feeding schedule wrong, and you’ll face stunted growth, health problems, and shortened lifespan. Get it right, and your axolotl will grow quickly, display vibrant colors, and live 12-15 healthy years.

When I got my first axolotl back in 2015, I made every feeding mistake possible. I overfed, used wrong food sizes, created terrible water quality from excess food, and watched my axolotl struggle with digestive problems. That first axolotl survived my learning curve, but I spent months correcting problems that proper feeding would have prevented.

Today, I’m raising my third generation of axolotls, having successfully fed hundreds from tiny larvae to full-sized adults. I’ve tested every food type available, experimented with different schedules, and learned what actually works versus what the outdated guides recommend.

This complete feeding guide covers exactly what to feed your axolotl at every life stage, how much to offer, how often to feed, and which foods to avoid. I’m sharing the precise feeding schedules I use on my own axolotls, along with the mistakes that cost me time and money so you can skip them entirely.

What Do Axolotls Eat in the Wild vs Captivity

Understanding natural feeding behavior helps explain why axolotls eat what they eat and how to replicate proper nutrition in tanks.

Natural Diet in the Wild

Wild axolotls are opportunistic carnivores living on lake bottoms. Their natural diet includes:

• Small fish and fish fry that swim near the bottom
• Aquatic insects and larvae like water beetles and mosquito larvae
• Small crustaceans including freshwater shrimp and amphipods
• Worms and mollusks found in lake sediment
• Occasionally their own species when food is scarce (cannibalistic behavior)

Axolotls hunt by sensing movement and chemical signals in water. They sit motionless until prey comes close, then strike with surprising speed. Their mouth creates powerful suction that inhales prey whole.

In nature, feeding is irregular. Axolotls might gorge when prey is abundant, then go days or weeks with little food. This feast-or-famine pattern shaped their digestive system and metabolism.

Adapting Diet to Captivity

Captive axolotls need consistent nutrition that mimics wild diet composition without the irregularity. The goal is providing high-protein, low-fat foods that replicate natural prey.

Key differences in captive feeding:

Consistent schedule: Rather than irregular wild feeding, we provide regular meals on predictable schedules. This supports steady growth and health monitoring.

Controlled portions: Wild axolotls might overeat when food is abundant. We control portions to prevent obesity and water quality problems.

Varied nutrition: Single food sources can create deficiencies. We rotate different protein sources for complete nutrition.

Size-appropriate prey: Wild axolotls eat whatever fits in their mouths. We carefully size food to prevent choking or impaction.

After years of testing various foods, I’ve found that earthworms, quality pellets, and supplementary live foods create the best health outcomes. These foods provide complete nutrition while maintaining excellent water quality.

Best Foods for Axolotls by Life Stage

Not all axolotl foods are equal. Some work great for adults but are dangerous for babies. Others are nutritious but messy or expensive. Here’s what actually works at each stage.

Foods for Baby Axolotls (Under 3 Inches)

Baby axolotls need tiny, live foods they can hunt. Their mouths are small, and they rely on movement to trigger feeding responses.

Live baby brine shrimp (best starter food): Newly hatched brine shrimp are perfect first food. They’re tiny, highly nutritious, and trigger hunting instincts. I hatch my own brine shrimp using hatcheries for constant supply.

Buy brine shrimp eggs online and hatch them 24 hours before feeding. One tablespoon of eggs produces thousands of baby shrimp.

Daphnia (water fleas): Slightly larger than baby brine shrimp, daphnia work well for growing larvae. They’re less nutritious than brine shrimp but serve as good variety.

Live daphnia cultures are easy to maintain in separate containers. I keep a culture going year-round for my baby axolotls.

Microworms: These tiny worms are easy to culture at home and provide good nutrition. However, they sink to the bottom quickly, making them less visible to baby axolotls than brine shrimp.

Grindal worms: Small worms perfect for transitioning babies to larger foods. Culture them in small plastic containers with bread and yeast. I start introducing grindal worms around week 3-4.

Blackworms (chopped): Live blackworms can be cut into tiny pieces for larger babies. These are more nutritious than brine shrimp but harder to size correctly.

Foods for Juvenile Axolotls (3-6 Inches)

Juveniles can handle larger foods and transition to items that will sustain them into adulthood.

Blackworms (whole): Live blackworms become the primary food at this stage. They’re highly nutritious, stay alive in cold water, and axolotls love them. These are expensive but worth it for fast, healthy growth.

I buy blackworms from aquarium stores or online suppliers. Store them in shallow water in the refrigerator, rinsing daily.

Small earthworm pieces: Cut nightcrawlers or red wigglers into appropriate sizes (no wider than the space between your axolotl’s eyes). This introduces them to their adult staple food.

Axolotl pellets: Quality sinking pellets like Hikari Sinking Carnivore Pellets or Rangen Salmon Pellets work well. Soak pellets briefly before feeding to prevent choking.

I use pellets as 30-40% of juvenile diet, with live foods making up the rest.

Frozen bloodworms: Thawed bloodworms provide variety and are less messy than live foods. They’re not as nutritious as worms but work well as supplementary food.

Small feeder guppies (use cautiously): If you choose to use feeders, guppies bred specifically for feeding are safer than wild-caught. I’ve mostly stopped using feeder fish due to disease risk.

Foods for Adult Axolotls (Over 6 Inches)

Adults have more food options and simpler feeding routines.

Earthworms – nightcrawlers (primary food): This is the gold standard for adult axolotl nutrition. Nightcrawlers are highly nutritious, easy to source, and axolotls never tire of them.

Buy nightcrawlers from bait shops, pet stores, or online. I order in bulk and store them in refrigerator worm bedding. They last 4-6 weeks with proper care.

Red wiggler worms: Smaller than nightcrawlers, red wigglers work well for medium-sized adults. Some keepers report red wigglers taste bitter to axolotls, but mine eat them readily.

Axolotl pellets (high-quality brands): Hikari Sinking Carnivore, Rangen, or specially formulated axolotl pellets provide complete nutrition. Use these as 20-30% of diet for convenience and variety.

Pellets are perfect for when you can’t get fresh worms or need quick feeding.

Frozen bloodworms: Good supplementary food but shouldn’t be primary diet. Bloodworms are lower in nutrition than earthworms. I use these occasionally for variety.

Frozen mysis shrimp: Another good supplementary option. More nutritious than bloodworms and adds variety to diet.

Live blackworms: Adults still enjoy blackworms, though the cost makes them impractical as primary food. I use them as treats.

Nutritional Requirements

Axolotls need high-protein, low-fat diets. Target nutritional profile:

• Protein: 40-50% minimum
• Fat: 10-15% maximum
• Fiber: Minimal (they’re carnivores)
• Vitamins and minerals: Naturally present in varied whole-prey items

Earthworms provide nearly perfect nutrition:

• 60-70% protein
• 7-10% fat
• Complete amino acid profile
• Natural vitamins and minerals
• Digestible and safe

This explains why earthworms are the recommended staple. They match axolotl nutritional needs almost perfectly.

Baby Axolotl Feeding Schedule (0-3 Months)

Baby axolotls grow incredibly fast with proper feeding. This stage requires the most attention and frequent feedings.

Week 1-2: Initial Feeding Stage

Age: Newly hatched to 1 inch Food: Live baby brine shrimp exclusively Frequency: 2-3 times daily Amount: As much as they’ll eat in 10-15 minutes

Newly hatched axolotls survive on yolk sacs for 24-48 hours. Start feeding when you see them actively swimming and hunting.

My exact schedule:

• Morning (8 AM): First feeding with freshly hatched brine shrimp
• Afternoon (2 PM): Second feeding
• Evening (8 PM): Third feeding (optional but accelerates growth)

Use a turkey baster to deliver brine shrimp directly to babies. They can’t hunt efficiently yet and need food brought close.

Growth expectations: Babies grow from 0.5 inches to about 1 inch during these two weeks.

Week 3-4: Transitioning Foods

Age: 1-1.5 inches Food: Baby brine shrimp plus daphnia or microworms Frequency: 2-3 times daily Amount: Fill their bellies visibly but not bloated

Introduce variety during this stage. Offer brine shrimp at two feedings and alternative foods at one feeding.

I continue brine shrimp as primary food but add daphnia every 2-3 days for variety. This prevents nutritional deficiencies and gets them accustomed to different prey.

Signs of proper feeding:

• Visible full bellies after feeding
• Active hunting behavior
• Steady growth (measure weekly)
• Healthy pink/red gills

Week 5-8: Increasing Food Size

Age: 1.5-2 inches
Food: Grindal worms, small blackworm pieces, baby brine shrimp
Frequency: 2 times daily
Amount: 10-15 worms per feeding or equivalent

This is the transition period toward foods that will sustain them long-term. Gradually increase food size as mouth size allows.

I start introducing tiny pieces of chopped blackworms around week 6. Cut them small enough that babies don’t struggle.

My schedule:

• Morning: Blackworm pieces or grindal worms
• Evening: Baby brine shrimp or daphnia

Week 9-12: Pre-Juvenile Stage

Age: 2-3 inches
Food: Whole small blackworms, tiny earthworm pieces, pellets
Frequency: 2 times daily
Amount: 15-20 small worms or 3-4 pellets per feeding

By three months, babies should eat foods similar to juveniles. They’re ready for small pellets and cut earthworm pieces.

I soak pellets for 2-3 minutes before feeding to prevent choking. Drop them directly in front of the axolotl.

Growth expectations: Properly fed babies reach 3 inches by 12 weeks. Underfed babies may only reach 2-2.5 inches, indicating problems.

Water Quality During Heavy Feeding

Baby feeding creates significant waste. Maintain pristine water quality through:

Daily water changes: Remove 20-30% water daily during heavy feeding periods. I do small daily changes rather than large weekly changes with babies.

Remove uneaten food: Use turkey baster to suck out any uneaten food within 30 minutes. Baby brine shrimp die quickly and foul water.

Monitor ammonia: Test every 2-3 days. Ammonia should always read 0 ppm. If it spikes, increase water change frequency.

Separate feeding containers: Some breeders feed babies in separate containers to prevent tank fouling. I’ve tried this and found it too stressful for the babies. Clean water changes work better.

Juvenile Axolotl Feeding Schedule (3-6 Months)

Juveniles are much easier to feed than babies. They eat larger foods less frequently and are less messy.

Early Juvenile Stage (3-4 Inches)

Age: 3-4 months
Food: Small earthworm pieces, blackworms, pellets
Frequency: Once daily
Amount: 1/2 to 1 small earthworm or 4-5 pellets

This is a relief stage after the intensive baby feeding schedule. Reduce to once-daily feeding as growth rate slows naturally.

My feeding routine: Feed every evening around 7 PM. I alternate between foods:

• Day 1: Earthworm pieces
• Day 2: Blackworms
• Day 3: Pellets
• Day 4: Earthworm pieces
• Continue rotating

This rotation provides nutritional variety and prevents boredom.

Portion sizing: Food pieces should be no wider than the space between your axolotl’s eyes. This prevents choking and impaction.

Mid Juvenile Stage (4-5 Inches)

Age: 4-5 months
Food: Larger earthworm pieces, whole blackworms, pellets
Frequency: Once daily or every other day
Amount: 1 medium earthworm or 5-6 pellets

Growth continues but slows compared to baby stage. Some juveniles can transition to every-other-day feeding at this size.

Watch body condition to determine frequency. Your axolotl should have a gentle taper from head to tail. If they’re getting round and chubby, reduce feeding frequency. If they look thin with visible ribs, feed daily.

I keep most juveniles at this size on daily feeding because they’re still growing actively.

Late Juvenile Stage (5-6 Inches)

Age: 5-6 months
Food: Full earthworms, multiple pellets, frozen foods
Frequency: Every other day
Amount: 1-2 earthworms or 6-8 pellets

By this stage, juveniles eat essentially the same foods as adults just in slightly smaller portions.

Transition to every-other-day feeding for most individuals. Fast-growing individuals or particularly active ones might still need daily feeding.

My schedule for late juveniles:

• Monday: 1.5 earthworms
• Wednesday: 7 pellets
• Friday: 1.5 earthworms
• Sunday: Frozen bloodworms or mysis shrimp

This provides three substantial meals weekly with good variety.

Monitoring Growth During Juvenile Stage

Juveniles should grow approximately:

• 0.5-1 inch per month with proper feeding
• Reach 6-7 inches by 6 months old
• Display healthy gill structure and coloration

Measure your juvenile monthly. Keep a growth log with measurements and photos. This helps identify feeding problems early.

Signs of proper feeding:

• Steady growth month-over-month
• Alert, active behavior
• Quick response to food
• Healthy gill color and structure
• Smooth skin without visible ribs

Signs of underfeeding:

• Stunted growth (less than 0.5 inch monthly)
• Thin body with visible spine/ribs
• Pale, deteriorating gills
• Lethargy and slow response to food

Signs of overfeeding:

• Rounded, obese body shape
• Bloating after meals
• Regurgitation
• Poor water quality from excess waste

Young Adult Feeding Schedule (6-12 Months)

Young adults are approaching full size but still growing. Feeding becomes even simpler at this stage.

Early Young Adult (6-8 Inches)

Age: 6-9 months
Food: Full-sized earthworms, adult pellet portions, variety foods
Frequency: Every 2-3 days
Amount: 1-2 large earthworms or 8-10 pellets per feeding

Young adults transition to the adult feeding schedule. Most individuals thrive on every-other-day or every-third-day feeding.

I feed my young adults three times weekly:

• Monday evening: 2 nightcrawlers
• Thursday evening: 8-10 Hikari pellets
• Saturday evening: 2 nightcrawlers

This schedule provides adequate nutrition without overfeeding. Adjust based on individual body condition.

Late Young Adult (8-10 Inches)

Age: 9-12 months
Food: Same as full adults
Frequency: 2-3 times weekly
Amount: 2-3 earthworms or 10-12 pellets per feeding

By this stage, use the same feeding schedule as adults. Most axolotls reach 90% of adult size by 12 months.

Typical weekly schedule:

• Tuesday: 2.5 earthworms
• Friday: 2.5 earthworms
• Plus occasional treats of frozen foods

Some large, fast-growing individuals benefit from a third feeding weekly. Monitor body condition and adjust accordingly.

Adjusting for Individual Needs

Not all axolotls grow at identical rates. Genetics, temperature, and starting size affect growth speed.

Faster-growing individuals: May need more frequent feeding. If your axolotl stays slim despite regular feeding, add an extra meal weekly.

Slower-growing individuals: Might maintain condition on less food. If gaining too much weight, reduce frequency to twice weekly.

I have two siblings from the same clutch one eats three times weekly and stays slim, the other eats twice weekly and maintains perfect condition. Individual variation is normal.

Adult Axolotl Feeding Schedule (12+ Months)

Adult feeding is the simplest stage. Established routines, less frequent feeding, and predictable portions make this easy.

Standard Adult Feeding Schedule

Age: 12+ months (9+ inches) Food: Earthworms (primary), pellets (secondary), frozen foods (treats) Frequency: 2-3 times weekly Amount: 2-3 large earthworms or 10-12 pellets per feeding

This is my standard schedule for all healthy adults:

Monday evening: 2-3 nightcrawlers Thursday or Friday evening: 2-3 nightcrawlers Optional Sunday: Treats like frozen bloodworms or blackworms

Total: 2-3 feedings per week providing adequate nutrition without overfeeding.

Feeding Large Adults (11+ Inches)

Extra-large adults sometimes need slightly more food or an additional weekly feeding.

My largest axolotl (12 inches, female) eats:

• Monday: 3 large earthworms
• Thursday: 3 large earthworms
• Sunday: 2 earthworms or frozen food treat

This third feeding keeps her at healthy weight without becoming obese.

Feeding Females vs Males

Female axolotls grow larger and bulkier than males. Adjust portions accordingly:

Females: Typically need 2-3 earthworms per feeding
Males: Usually satisfied with 1-2 earthworms per feeding

My males maintain perfect condition on twice-weekly feedings with 1.5-2 worms each time. My females need 2-3 worms per feeding to maintain weight.

Seasonal Feeding Adjustments

Axolotl appetite varies slightly with temperature and season.

Summer (warmer water): Appetite may decrease slightly if water temperature rises toward 68°F. Don’t force-feed. Reduce portions if refusals increase.

Winter (cooler water): Metabolism slows in colder water (below 60°F). My basement tanks sometimes drop to 58°F in winter, and axolotls eat slightly less. Maintain feeding schedule but accept smaller portions.

Breeding season: Females preparing to lay eggs eat more. Increase feeding frequency temporarily to support egg production. After laying, females may fast for several days this is normal.

Fasting Days

Adult axolotls benefit from occasional fasting. In the wild, food availability fluctuates, and they’re adapted to irregular feeding.

Benefits of fasting:

• Allows complete digestion
• Prevents obesity
• Reduces waste production
• Mimics natural feeding patterns

I don’t intentionally fast my adults, but the 2-3 times weekly feeding schedule naturally includes 3-4 fasting days. This is sufficient.

Some keepers fast adults for 3-4 days weekly, feeding only 2 times. This works fine for individuals prone to obesity.

Maintaining Proper Body Condition

An adult axolotl at healthy weight shows:

• Gentle taper from head to tail
• No visible ribs or spine
• Not round or bloated
• Active and responsive

Underweight indicators:

• Visible spine and rib bones
• Concave belly
• Thin limbs
• Pale, deteriorating gills

Solution: Increase feeding frequency to 3-4 times weekly or larger portions.

Overweight indicators:

• Round, cylindrical body
• No visible taper from head to tail
• Difficulty moving
• Persistent bloating

Solution: Reduce to 2 times weekly feeding with controlled portions. Increase fasting periods.

How to Feed Axolotls: Techniques and Methods

Delivery method affects feeding success, cleanliness, and bonding with your pet.

Tong Feeding (Recommended)

Long aquarium tongs (12-16 inches) are my preferred feeding method.

Benefits:

• Precise food placement
• Keeps hands out of cold water
• Reduces water fouling
• Creates interaction opportunity
• Easy portion control

Technique:

1. Grasp food firmly with tongs
2. Slowly lower into tank
3. Position 2-3 inches in front of axolotl’s face
4. Hold still until they notice
5. They’ll strike and inhale food with suction
6. Release tongs once food is grabbed

Some axolotls learn to take food from tongs immediately. Others need the food wiggled slightly to trigger hunting response.

My most responsive axolotls have learned to come to the feeding corner when they see the tongs. This simple form of training makes feeding efficient and enjoyable.

Scatter Feeding

Dropping food directly into the tank near your axolotl.

Benefits:

• Natural hunting behavior
• Good for shy axolotls
• Less stressful than tongs for some individuals
• Works well for pellets

Drawbacks:

• Food can get lost in decorations
• Creates more mess
• Harder to control portions
• Uneaten food fouls water faster

I use scatter feeding for pellets but prefer tongs for earthworms.

Technique:

1. Drop food 2-3 inches in front of axolotl
2. Watch to ensure they find it
3. If they miss it, use tongs to reposition
4. Remove any uneaten food after 15-20 minutes

Feeding Dishes

Some keepers use smooth ceramic or glass dishes placed on substrate.

Benefits:

• Contains mess in one area
• Prevents substrate ingestion with food
• Easy to remove uneaten items

Drawbacks:

• Requires training axolotls to find dish
• Extra item to clean
• May not work for all individuals

I’ve tried feeding dishes with mixed results. Some axolotls adapted immediately, others never figured it out. Tongs work more universally.

Hand Feeding (Not Recommended)

Feeding directly from hands is possible but problematic.

Why I don’t recommend it:

• Human hands are too warm (stresses axolotls)
• Oils and chemicals from skin can harm them
• Increases handling stress
• No real benefit over tongs

If you must hand feed, wet hands in cold tank water first and minimize contact time.

Target Training

Advanced keepers can train axolotls to associate feeding with specific locations or signals.

My method:

1. Always feed in the same tank corner
2. Approach tank at same time daily
3. Use tongs consistently
4. Tap glass gently before feeding (optional)

After 2-3 weeks, most axolotls learn the pattern and wait in the feeding corner at meal times. This isn’t true training like with dogs, but they do recognize routines and associate you with food.

Feeding Multiple Axolotls

When housing multiple axolotls in one tank, ensure everyone gets food.

Techniques:

• Use multiple feeding areas (opposite corners)
• Feed one at a time using tongs
• Watch for bullying or food stealing
• Temporarily separate aggressive eaters if necessary

My pair in the 40-gallon tank feeds cooperatively. I drop earthworms in opposite corners simultaneously, and each axolotl claims their area. No conflicts occur.

In tanks with three or more axolotls, watch closely. Dominant individuals sometimes steal food from others. If this happens consistently, feed the submissive axolotl first or separate during feeding.

Dealing with Messy Eaters

Axolotls are naturally messy feeders. They spit out and re-catch food multiple times, creating debris.

Minimizing mess:

• Use tongs to feed away from decorations
• Feed over bare spots in substrate
• Remove food pieces immediately if they drop
• Increase water changes during heavy feeding periods

I keep a turkey baster handy during feeding. If an earthworm piece falls into a decoration, I suck it out immediately before it fouls the water.

Foods to Avoid and Why

Not everything edible is safe for axolotls. Some common recommendations are actually harmful.

Dangerous Foods

Feeder goldfish: Despite being commonly recommended, goldfish pose several risks:

• Contain thiaminase (enzyme that destroys vitamin B1)
• Carry parasites and diseases
• High in fat (causes liver problems)
• Bones can cause injury

I used feeder goldfish early in my keeping and had an axolotl develop parasites traced to contaminated feeders. I stopped using them entirely.

Beef heart and mammal meat: Old guides recommend these. Modern understanding shows problems:

• Axolotls can’t properly digest mammal fats
• Leads to fatty liver disease
• Causes digestive impaction
• No nutritional benefit over appropriate foods

Hard-bodied insects: Crickets, mealworms, superworms have problems:

• Hard exoskeletons cause impaction
• Lower nutritional value than worms
• May contain parasites from commercial sources
• Difficult to digest

Soft-bodied insects like hornworms or silkworms are safer but still not ideal.

Saltwater fish: Tuna, salmon, and other ocean fish:

• Too high in fat
• Incorrect mineral balance
• May contain thiaminase
• Not part of natural diet

Human food: Never feed:

• Processed meats (lunch meat, hot dogs)
• Cooked foods
• Seasoned items
• Bread or grains
• Vegetables (they’re carnivores)

Questionable Foods

Some foods work but aren’t ideal:

Frozen krill: Nutritious but often too large and hard. Can work chopped for variety but shouldn’t be primary food.

Brine shrimp (adults): Suitable for small juveniles but not nutritious enough for larger animals. Use sparingly as treats only.

Feeder guppies: Safer than goldfish if bred specifically for feeding. Still carry disease risk. I’ve mostly eliminated feeders from my feeding program.

Tubifex worms: Live tubifex can carry diseases. Freeze-dried tubifex lack nutrition. I avoid them entirely.

Why Earthworms Are Superior

Earthworms avoid all these problems:

• Perfect protein-to-fat ratio
• No thiaminase
• Easy to digest
• Low disease risk from reputable sources
• Appropriate size for all life stages
• Affordable and readily available
• Highly nutritious
• Axolotls never refuse them

This is why every experienced keeper recommends earthworms as primary diet.

Troubleshooting Feeding Problems

Even with proper feeding schedules, problems occasionally occur. Here’s how to handle them.

Refusing Food

Possible causes:

1. Water too warm: Temperature above 68°F kills appetite immediately. Check temperature first when feeding refusals occur.

Solution: Cool water to 60-64°F range. Appetite returns within 24 hours usually.

2. Recent large meal: Axolotls sometimes fast 2-4 days after eating heavily. This is normal digestion time.

Solution: Wait 3-5 days and try again. Don’t force feed.

3. Illness: Persistent refusal beyond a week with proper temperature indicates health problems.

Solution: Examine for illness signs (deteriorating gills, skin problems, lethargy). Address underlying health issue.

4. Stress: New environments, aggressive tank mates, or frequent handling cause feeding refusal.

Solution: Minimize disturbance. Provide hiding spots. Separate aggressive tank mates.

5. Wrong food size: Food too large causes choking fear. Food too small generates no interest.

Solution: Resize food pieces. Follow the “no wider than space between eyes” rule.

Regurgitation

Axolotls occasionally vomit after eating.

Causes:

• Water too warm
• Food too large
• Overfeeding
• Digestive blockage
• Poor water quality

Solution:

1. Check temperature immediately
2. Fast for 3-4 days
3. Resume with smaller portions and smaller food pieces
4. Test water parameters
5. If regurgitation persists, consider impaction or illness

I’ve seen regurgitation most often during temperature spikes. Cooling water stops the problem immediately.

Floating After Eating

Some axolotls float temporarily after large meals.

Normal causes:

• Air swallowed during feeding strike
• Full stomach creating buoyancy
• Natural digestive gas

Normal floating:

• Lasts 30-60 minutes
• Axolotl can still sink by swimming
• No distress signs
• Resolves naturally

Abnormal floating:

• Lasts hours or days
• Unable to sink despite trying
• Other illness signs present
• Getting worse over time

Solution for abnormal floating: Lower water level so axolotl can rest on bottom. Fast for several days. If it continues beyond 48 hours, investigate illness or impaction.

Competition and Aggression

When housing multiple axolotls, food competition can cause problems.

Signs:

• Smaller axolotl not getting food
• Nipped gills or limbs
• One axolotl much thinner than others
• Aggressive lunging during feeding

Solutions:

• Feed in multiple locations simultaneously
• Use tongs to feed submissive axolotl directly
• Temporarily separate during feeding
• Consider housing separately if aggression continues

Overeating and Obesity

Some axolotls will eat until uncomfortably full if given opportunity.

Signs:

• Round, cylindrical body
• No taper from head to tail
• Bloating after every meal
• Reduced activity

Solution:

1. Reduce feeding frequency to 2 times weekly
2. Control portions strictly (1-2 worms maximum)
3. Extend fasting periods
4. Monitor weight monthly

One of my females was prone to obesity. I reduced her to twice-weekly feeding with 2 worms per meal. Within 6 weeks she returned to healthy weight.

Slow Growth

Juveniles not growing at expected rates indicate feeding or environmental problems.

Expected growth:

• Babies: 0.5-1 inch per month
• Juveniles: 0.5-1 inch per month
• Young adults: 0.25-0.5 inch per month

Causes of stunted growth:

• Underfeeding (portions too small or infrequent)
• Water temperature too warm (slows metabolism abnormally)
• Poor water quality (stress prevents growth)
• Illness or parasites
• Genetic factors (some grow slower naturally)

Solutions:

1. Increase feeding frequency or portions
2. Verify temperature stays 60-64°F
3. Test and improve water quality
4. Check for illness signs
5. Compare to siblings if available

I had one slow-growing juvenile that was half the size of its siblings at 4 months. After increasing to twice-daily feeding and improving water quality, growth accelerated. By 8 months it caught up to normal size.

Food Aversion

Rarely, axolotls refuse specific foods.

Example: Some axolotls spit out pellets repeatedly but eat earthworms eagerly.

Solution: Focus on foods they accept. Try different brands or types of rejected food. Most food aversions are minor preferences, not serious problems.

My most stubborn axolotl refuses pellets entirely but eats any live or frozen food offered. I simply feed earthworms and bloodworms exclusively for that individual.

Frequently Asked Questions About Axolotl Feeding

What do axolotls eat?

Axolotls are carnivores that eat high-protein foods. The best diet consists of:

Primary foods: Earthworms (nightcrawlers), quality sinking carnivore pellets

Supplementary foods: Blackworms, frozen bloodworms, frozen mysis shrimp

Baby foods: Live baby brine shrimp, daphnia, microworms, grindal worms

Earthworms should make up 60-80% of an adult axolotl’s diet. They provide complete nutrition with perfect protein-to-fat ratio. Pellets and frozen foods add variety and convenience.

After feeding axolotls for 10 years, I’ve found this combination produces the healthiest animals with best growth and coloration.

How often should I feed my axolotl?

Feeding frequency depends on age:

Baby axolotls (0-3 months): 2-3 times daily Juvenile axolotls (3-6 months): Once daily to every other day Young adults (6-12 months): Every 2-3 days Adult axolotls (12+ months): 2-3 times per week

Adult axolotls don’t need daily feeding. I feed my adults every Monday and Thursday with occasional Sunday treats. This schedule provides adequate nutrition while maintaining excellent water quality.

Adjust frequency based on individual body condition. Thin axolotls need more frequent feeding. Obese axolotls need less.

How much should I feed my axolotl?

Feed portions roughly equal to the size of your axolotl’s head per feeding session.

Specific amounts:

For earthworms:

• Baby axolotls: 1/4 to 1/2 worm (cut into tiny pieces)
• Juvenile axolotls: 1/2 to 1 worm
• Young adults: 1-2 worms
• Full adults: 2-3 large nightcrawlers

For pellets:

• Juveniles: 3-5 pellets
• Adults: 8-12 pellets

Watch your axolotl’s body condition. They should have a gentle taper from head to tail. If getting round, reduce portions. If visibly thin with prominent ribs, increase feeding.

Can axolotls eat fish food?

Standard fish flakes or tropical fish pellets don’t provide proper nutrition for axolotls.

Axolotls need high-protein, sinking carnivore foods. Fish flakes float (axolotls are bottom feeders) and lack sufficient protein.

Appropriate “fish foods” for axolotls:

• Hikari Sinking Carnivore Pellets
• Massivore pellets
• Salmon fry pellets
• Other high-protein sinking pellets designed for carnivores

Avoid:

• Tropical fish flakes
• Goldfish food
• Herbivore pellets
• Floating foods

I use Hikari Sinking Carnivore Pellets as 20-30% of my adults’ diet. These are formulated for carnivorous fish and work perfectly for axolotls.

Do axolotls need to eat every day?

No, adult axolotls don’t need daily feeding. In the wild, food availability is irregular, and they’re adapted to feast-or-famine patterns.

Daily feeding is appropriate for:

• Baby axolotls (0-3 months)
• Fast-growing juveniles (3-6 months)
• Underweight individuals recovering condition

Every 2-3 day feeding works for:

• Healthy adults (12+ months)
• Individuals maintaining proper body weight
• Most axolotls over 8 inches

Overfeeding causes obesity, poor water quality, and health problems. Less frequent feeding with appropriate portions produces healthier axolotls.

My adults thrive on twice-weekly feeding. They’re active, healthy, maintain perfect weight, and show no signs of hunger between feedings.

Can you overfeed an axolotl?

Yes, absolutely. Axolotls will eat beyond their needs if given opportunity, leading to obesity and health problems.

Signs of overfeeding:

• Round, bloated body shape
• No visible taper from head to tail
• Regurgitation after meals
• Lethargy and reduced activity
• Poor water quality from excess waste

Consequences:

• Fatty liver disease
• Reduced lifespan
• Digestive problems
• Water quality crashes

I’ve seen obese axolotls in rescue situations. They’re lethargic, have poor gill health, and struggle to move normally. Returning them to healthy weight takes months of controlled feeding.

Feed appropriate portions on regular schedules rather than offering unlimited food.

What can axolotls not eat?

Axolotls should never eat:

Dangerous foods:

• Feeder goldfish (contain thiaminase, carry diseases)
• Beef heart or mammal meat (causes fatty liver disease)
• Hard insects like crickets or mealworms (impaction risk)
• Human food (processed meats, cooked foods, seasonings)
• Vegetables or plants (they’re carnivores)

Problematic foods:

• Saltwater fish (too fatty, wrong minerals)
• Tubifex worms (disease risk)
• Any food wider than space between their eyes (choking hazard)

Stick to earthworms, quality pellets, and appropriate frozen foods. These provide complete nutrition without health risks.

How long can axolotls go without food?

Healthy adult axolotls can safely fast for 2-3 weeks without harm. In the wild, food availability fluctuates seasonally, and they’re adapted to extended periods without eating.

Safe fasting periods:

• Adults: 2-3 weeks maximum
• Young adults: 1-2 weeks
• Juveniles: 5-7 days
• Babies: 3-4 days maximum

I don’t deliberately fast my axolotls this long, but it means short trips where feeding isn’t possible won’t harm them.

If your axolotl refuses food, check water temperature first. Warm water (above 68°F) stops appetite immediately. Cool the water and they’ll resume eating within 24 hours typically.

Do axolotls need vitamins or supplements?

No, axolotls eating varied diets of whole prey items get complete nutrition without supplements.

Foods providing complete nutrition:

• Earthworms (contain all necessary vitamins and minerals)
• Quality pellets (fortified with vitamins)
• Whole live prey (provides natural nutrients)

When supplements might help:

• Axolotls eating only one food type
• Recovering from illness
• Breeding females producing eggs

I’ve never supplemented my axolotls’ diets in 10 years. They receive earthworms, pellets, and frozen foods in rotation, which provides complete nutrition naturally.

If you suspect deficiencies, improve diet variety rather than adding supplements. Varied foods work better than artificial vitamins.

Why is my axolotl spitting out food?

Axolotls naturally spit out and re-catch food multiple times before swallowing. This is normal feeding behavior, not rejection.

Normal spitting:

• Repositions food in mouth
• Occurs 2-5 times per feeding
• Eventually swallows food
• Part of hunting/eating process

Actual rejection reasons:

• Food too large (can’t swallow)
• Food tastes bad (poor quality)
• Already full (overfed)
• Water too warm (no appetite)
• Illness (general refusal)

If your axolotl consistently spits out and never swallows specific foods after multiple attempts, try:

• Cutting food smaller
• Offering different food type
• Checking water temperature
• Waiting 24 hours and trying again

My axolotls always spit out earthworms 3-4 times before swallowing. This is their normal eating pattern, not a problem.

Feeding Schedule Summary Chart

For quick reference, here’s the complete feeding schedule at a glance:

0-2 Weeks (Under 1 inch):

• Food: Baby brine shrimp
• Frequency: 2-3 times daily
• Amount: As much as they’ll eat in 10-15 minutes

3-4 Weeks (1-1.5 inches):

• Food: Baby brine shrimp, daphnia, microworms
• Frequency: 2-3 times daily
• Amount: Fill belly visibly

1-3 Months (1.5-3 inches):

• Food: Grindal worms, blackworm pieces, tiny earthworm pieces
• Frequency: 2 times daily
• Amount: 15-20 small worms

3-6 Months (3-6 inches):

• Food: Earthworm pieces, blackworms, pellets
• Frequency: Once daily to every other day
• Amount: 1 small earthworm or 4-6 pellets

6-12 Months (6-9 inches):

• Food: Full earthworms, adult pellet portions
• Frequency: Every 2-3 days
• Amount: 1-2 earthworms or 8-10 pellets

12+ Months (9+ inches):

• Food: Earthworms (primary), pellets, frozen foods
• Frequency: 2-3 times weekly
• Amount: 2-3 large earthworms or 10-12 pellets

Final Thoughts on Axolotl Feeding

Proper feeding is one of the three pillars of successful axolotl care (along with temperature control and water quality). Get the diet right, and your axolotl will grow quickly, display vibrant colors, and live a long healthy life.

The key principles I’ve learned over 10 years:

Earthworms are the gold standard. Every healthy adult axolotl in my care eats primarily nightcrawlers. They provide perfect nutrition and axolotls never tire of them.

Less frequent feeding works better for adults. New keepers often overfeed thinking daily meals are necessary. Adults thrive on 2-3 feedings weekly.

Portion control prevents obesity. Feed amounts equal to head size, not more. Overfeeding causes more problems than slight underfeeding.

Variety improves health. Rotate between earthworms, pellets, and frozen foods rather than feeding one item exclusively.

Babies need intensive feeding. The 0-3 month period requires multiple daily feedings. This investment pays off with healthy, fast-growing juveniles.

Water quality follows feeding. More food equals more waste. Balance adequate nutrition with maintaining excellent water parameters.

After raising hundreds of axolotls from eggs to adults, I’m confident this feeding approach produces the healthiest animals. My oldest axolotls have reached 9-10 years old with this diet, and current animals are thriving on these schedules.

Common feeding mistakes to avoid:

1. Overfeeding adults with daily meals
2. Using feeder goldfish as primary diet
3. Feeding food pieces too large
4. Not removing uneaten food promptly
5. Failing to adjust portions based on body condition
6. Underfeeding babies and juveniles
7. Using low-quality pellets as sole diet

Starting your feeding program:

If you’re setting up for a new axolotl, stock these items before bringing your pet home:

• Nightcrawlers from bait shop or online supplier
• Quality sinking carnivore pellets
• Frozen bloodworms for variety
• Long aquarium tongs (12-16 inches)
• Turkey baster for removing uneaten food
• Food storage containers

For babies, have live baby brine shrimp culture ready or access to daily supplies.

Feeding creates bonding opportunities. While axolotls aren’t cuddly pets, feeding time creates positive interaction. Mine recognize me and respond to my presence. Some come to feeding corners when they see me approach. This simple routine creates connection between keeper and pet.

The effort you put into proper feeding directly impacts your axolotl’s health and longevity. Feed them well, and they’ll reward you with years of fascinating behavior and unique companionship.