The Complete Guide to Axolotl Care: Everything You Need to Know About Keeping These Unique Aquatic Pets

I’ve been keeping axolotls for over eight years now, and these amazing amphibians need special care to really do well. Whether you’re trying to figure out how to care for an axolotl or wondering if axolotls are easy to take care of, this guide covers everything from tank setup to health care based on what actually works.

Understanding Your Axolotl: What Makes Them Special

The axolotl (Ambystoma mexicanum) is one of the coolest creatures you can keep in an aquarium. They come from the old lake systems of Mexico Lake Xochimilco and Lake Chalco. These salamanders stay in their baby water form their whole lives. This is called neoteny, and it means they never change like other amphibians do.

What really makes axolotls stand out is how they can grow back body parts. They can regrow limbs, organs like their heart, and even parts of their brain. This makes them interesting to medical researchers and amazing to watch as pets.

When you take care of them right, axolotls usually live 10-15 years. Some live even longer. Adults grow to about 9-10 inches long, though some get as big as 18 inches.

Are Axolotls Easy to Take Care Of? The Honest Answer

Let me be straight with you: axolotls are not easy pets. They need real commitment and careful attention that goes way beyond caring for regular fish. Here’s why:

What Makes Them Hard:

• They need cold water: You have to keep the water cold, which often means buying a chiller
• Weekly cleaning is a must: You can’t skip water changes
• Hand feeding: You have to feed them directly with tongs
• Daily cleaning: You need to remove waste with a turkey baster
• Water chemistry matters: They get sick easily from ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates

But don’t give up yet. Once you get into a routine and know what they need, taking care of axolotls gets easier and feels really rewarding.

Essential Axolotl Tank Setup: Building the Perfect Habitat

Good axolotl care starts with the right tank. After setting up dozens of axolotl tanks over the years, I know what works.

Tank Size Requirements

You need at least a 29 gallon tank for one axolotl, but I really suggest starting with a 40 gallon breeder tank. Here’s why: bigger tanks dilute waste better and keep the temperature more stable.

Tank Size Guide:

• One axolotl: 29 gallons minimum, 40 gallons better
• Two axolotls: 55-75 gallons minimum
• Each extra axolotl: Add 10 gallons

Pick tanks with more floor space than height. Axolotls walk on the bottom and don’t swim up and down much.

Critical Water Parameters

Temperature is where most beginners mess up. Axolotls need water between 60-68°F (15-20°C). Anything over 72°F for too long causes stress, kills their appetite, and makes them sick easier.

Water Parameters You Need:

• Temperature: 60-68°F (15-20°C) – use a thermometer
• pH: 6.5-8.0 (neutral is best)
• Ammonia: 0 ppm (must be zero)
• Nitrite: 0 ppm (must be zero)
• Nitrate: Below 20 ppm (lower is better)
• General Hardness (GH): 7-14
• Carbonate Hardness (KH): 3-8

If you live somewhere warm, you’ll need a chiller or at least clip-on fans to keep the water cool enough. Room temperature is usually too hot in summer.

Substrate Selection: Safety First

Bare bottom tanks hurt axolotl toes and stress them out because they can’t grip. Gravel kills them if they swallow it. From lots of experience, fine sand (smaller than 1mm) is the only safe bottom for adult axolotls over 6 inches.

Substrate Options:

• Fine sand: Best for adults, gives them grip, passes through if eaten
• Bare bottom: Safe for babies, easy to clean, but not natural looking
• Large slate tiles: Looks natural, no choking risk, gives grip
• Never use gravel: Causes deadly blockages in their stomach

Filtration Systems

Axolotls make a lot of waste, which creates nitrates fast. Pick filters rated for 3-6 times your tank size, but set them up to make gentle water flow.

Filter Setup Tips:

• Use sponge filters for smaller tanks (20-30 gallons)
• Put spray bars on canister filters to spread out the current
• Point filter outlets at the glass to reduce flow
• Add big decorations in front of outlets to block current
• Don’t create strong currents that stress axolotls

Lighting and Decorations

Axolotls don’t have eyelids and bright lights bother them. Keep lights dim regular room light usually works fine. If you use tank lights for live plants, give them plenty of hiding spots.

Must-Have Decorations:

• Hiding places: PVC pipes, ceramic caves, clay pots (3-4 per tank)
• Smooth surfaces: No sharp edges that can cut their skin
• Secure placement: Make sure decorations won’t fall or trap your axolotl

Live Plants (Optional)

Tough, low-light plants help clean the water and give natural cover:

• Java fern
• Anubias
• Java moss
• Marimo moss balls
• Hornwort
• Duckweed (floats on top)

Attach plants to decorations instead of planting them so they don’t get pulled up during feeding.

Nitrogen Cycle: The Non-Negotiable Step

This is critical: Never put an axolotl in a new tank. The cycling process takes 4-8 weeks before your axolotl can safely live in the water.

The nitrogen cycle grows good bacteria that turn toxic ammonia (from poop) into nitrite, then into safer nitrate. Without this, ammonia and nitrite will poison your axolotl.

Cycling Steps:

1. Set up the whole tank with the filter running
2. Add an ammonia source (pure ammonia or fish food)
3. Test water every 2-3 days
4. Wait for ammonia and nitrite to go up, then drop to 0 ppm
5. Check that nitrate is there (means cycling worked)
6. Do a 50% water change
7. Add your axolotl only after ammonia and nitrite stay at 0 ppm for one week

Use bottled bacteria like Fritz Turbo Start 700 to speed things up, but it won’t make an instant cycle no matter what the bottle says.

Proper Axolotl Feeding: Diet and Nutrition

Axolotls only eat meat and need certain foods to stay healthy. After trying different foods for years, I’ve found that mixing it up is key.

Best Food Options

Main Diet:

• Earthworms/Nightcrawlers: The best food with great nutrition
• Bloodworms: Frozen, lots of protein
• Blackworms: Fresh or frozen, perfect for smaller axolotls
• Salmon pellets: Good sinking pellets to add to their diet

Treats Sometimes:

• Brine shrimp (frozen)
• Small pieces of cooked shrimp

Foods to Skip:

• Live feeder fish (bring parasites)
• Mammals/mice (too fatty)
• Food with aloe vera
• Anything with fake additives

Feeding Schedule and Portions

Babies (under 6 inches):

• Feed every day
• Small amounts they can eat in 5-10 minutes
• Several small meals work better than one big one

Adults (6+ inches):

• Feed 2-3 times per week
• 5 pellets or the same amount of other food per feeding
• Change amounts based on how hungry they are and their body shape

How to Feed: Use long feeding tongs or tweezers to give food directly to your axolotl. Cut earthworms into pieces no longer than your axolotl’s head width. Take out uneaten food within 5-10 minutes to keep water clean.

Water Changes and Maintenance: Your Weekly Routine

Regular maintenance isn’t optional for healthy axolotls. Here’s the routine I’ve done successfully for years:

Weekly Water Change Protocol

1. Test water (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH)
2. Vacuum out 20-30% of tank water while removing visible poop
3. Replace with treated, temperature-matched water
4. Use water conditioner without aloe vera
5. Watch temperature during refilling

Maintenance Schedule:

• Water changes: Once weekly minimum (more if tests show problems)
• Testing: Weekly for old tanks, every 2-3 days for new tanks
• Filter cleaning: Monthly (rinse in tank water, never tap water)
• Bottom cleaning: Weekly spot-cleaning with turkey baster

Emergency Water Changes

If ammonia or nitrite readings go above 0.25 ppm, do an immediate 50% water change. Test again after 24 hours. Several smaller changes are safer than one complete water change, which can kill your good bacteria.

Common Health Issues and Disease Prevention

Even though they can regrow body parts, axolotls get sick easily from bad water, stress, and wrong handling. Catching problems early keeps them from getting serious.

Recognizing Stress Signals

Main Stress Signs:

• Tail curled into C-shape all the time
• Gills bent forward
• Won’t eat or eats less
• Floats for long periods
• Gills look pale or wrong color
• Too much slime on body
• Tired or swimming weird

Most Common Health Problems

1. Fungal Infections The most common problem when water isn’t perfect. Fungus looks like white, fuzzy stuff growing on gills, head, and legs.

Treatment:

• Fix water right away
• Lower temperature to 60-65°F
• Salt bath (2-3 tsp per gallon for 10-15 minutes daily)
• Indian almond leaves to boost health
• Call a vet if it’s spreading fast

2. Ammonia/Nitrite Poisoning Happens from new tanks or bad maintenance. Signs include gills bent forward, won’t eat, irritated skin, and you can see blood vessels.

Treatment:

• Immediate 50% water change with matched, treated water
• Test the water
• Daily water changes until levels stay at 0 ppm
• Look at your filter and feeding habits

3. Impaction Happens when axolotls swallow gravel, small decorations, or too-big food.

Prevention:

• Only use fine sand or bare bottom
• Remove anything smaller than 2x head width
• Cut food to right sizes
• Don’t overfeed

Treatment:

• Mild cases might get better with warmer water (70°F) and less food
• Bad cases need a vet

4. Heat Stress When water temperature goes above 75°F and stays there, axolotls show signs from not eating to swelling to floating they can’t control.

Emergency Treatment:

• Float container with axolotl in refrigerator (NOT freezer)
• Slowly cool tank water with frozen water bottles (in bags)
• Get a chiller for permanent fix
• May need antibiotics to stop infections

Disease Prevention Strategy

How to Stay Ahead:

• Keep water perfect
• Do regular water changes no matter what
• Quarantine new axolotls for 30 days minimum
• Never add fish or other animals to tank
• Don’t handle unless you have to
• Feed good quality mixed food
• Watch their behavior every day
• Find an exotic vet before you have an emergency

Tank Mate Compatibility: The Solitary Truth

Axolotls don’t need friends and don’t feel lonely. They like being alone and don’t get anything from having company.

Housing Multiple Axolotls

If you want to keep more than one axolotl despite the risks:

What You Need:

• Same size individuals only (stops them eating each other)
• Minimum 55-75 gallons for two
• Multiple hiding spots to reduce fights
• Feed each one in different tank areas
• Watch closely for fighting or biting

Risks:

• Axolotls think each other is food and will bite
• They might breed by accident
• More waste makes nitrate levels go up fast
• Injuries stress both even though they grow back

Fish as Tank Mates: Not Recommended

Keeping fish with axolotls causes lots of problems:

• Fish bite their gills and fins
• Axolotls eat fish small enough to fit in their mouths
• Fish carry parasites and diseases that hurt axolotls
• They need different temperatures
• Fighting over food

My advice: Keep axolotls alone for their best health and your peace of mind.

Axolotl Behavior: What’s Normal vs. Concerning

Knowing normal axolotl behavior helps you spot problems early.

Normal Behaviors

• Slow walking along tank bottom looking around
• Swimming up to the surface for air sometimes
• Gulping at water surface now and then
• Tail wiggling or “dancing” (feeling their surroundings)
• Resting in hiding spots when lights are bright
• Quick darts when scared
• Yawning to adjust their jaw

Concerning Behaviors

• Floating all the time (especially upside down)
• Gasping at surface constantly
• Not eating for multiple feedings
• Weird swimming (standing up, spinning)
• Bad gill damage or getting worse
• Wounds not healing within days
• Color changes (pale, dark, or uneven color)

Setting Up Your First Axolotl Tank: Complete Checklist

Based on years of experience, here’s exactly what you need:

Essential Equipment ($200-$400 USD to start)

Tank & Stand:

• 40 gallon breeder tank minimum
• Strong tank stand
• Tank lid (stops jumping)

Filtration & Water:

• Sponge filter or canister filter (gentle flow)
• Air pump (if using sponge filter)
• Airline tubing and check valve
• Water conditioner (no aloe)
• 5-gallon bucket for water changes
• Tank siphon
• Turkey baster (waste removal)

Temperature Control:

• 2 thermometers (check accuracy)
• Tank chiller OR clip-on cooling fans
• Frozen water bottles (emergency cooling)

Testing & Cycling:

• API Freshwater Master Test Kit
• Fritz Turbo Start 700 or similar bottled bacteria
• Pure ammonia for cycling

Substrate & Decor:

• Fine sand (40 lbs for 40 gallon) OR bare bottom
• 3-4 hiding spots (PVC pipes, ceramic caves, clay pots)
• Optional: Live plants and attachments

Feeding Supplies:

• Long feeding tongs (silicone tips)
• Food storage containers
• Kitchen scissors (cutting food)

Ongoing Monthly Costs

• Food: $15-25/month
• Water conditioner: $5-10/month
• Electricity (chiller/filter): $10-30/month
• Water testing supplies: $10/month
• Replacement filter media: $5-10/month

Total monthly cost: $45-75 USD

Advanced Care Topics

Acclimating New Axolotls

Never put axolotls straight into your tank. Follow this slow process:

1. Float sealed bag in tank for 15 minutes (matches temperature)
2. Add small amount of tank water to bag every 5 minutes for 45 minutes
3. Carefully net axolotl and put in tank (don’t add bag water)
4. Keep lights off for 3-6 hours
5. Don’t feed for 24 hours after moving
6. Watch closely for stress signs

Handling Axolotls Safely

Handle as little as possible to reduce stress and prevent injuries. When you have to:

• Wet hands completely first
• Use soft fine-mesh net
• Never grab gills, limbs, or tail
• Support their whole body
• Keep handling under 30 seconds
• Handle over container to prevent falls

Their thin skin soaks things up, and soaps, chemicals, or oils from your hands can hurt them.

Breeding Considerations

Only experienced keepers should breed axolotls. You could get 100-1,500 eggs. Baby axolotls eat each other and need tons of space, daily feeding, and separate homes as they grow.

Frequently Asked Questions About Axolotl Care

Q: Can axolotls live out of water?
No. Axolotls are fully water animals and never change form. They can’t breathe air or survive on land.

Q: Do axolotls need a heater?
No. Axolotls need cold water (60-68°F), opposite of tropical fish. Most need chillers or fans to keep water cool enough.

Q: How often do axolotls eat?
Babies eat daily; adults eat 2-3 times weekly. Overfeeding causes health problems and dirty water.

Q: Can I touch my axolotl?
Handle as little as possible. Axolotls are for watching only. Their skin soaks up stuff from hands, and handling stresses them out bad.

Q: What colors do axolotls come in?
Wild-type (dark gray), leucistic (white with dark eyes), albino (white/golden with red eyes), melanistic (black), and various designer colors including GFP.

Q: Are axolotls legal everywhere?
No. Some U.S. states (California, Maine, New Jersey) don’t allow axolotl ownership. Check local rules before buying.

Final Thoughts: Is Axolotl Care Right for You?

Learning how to care for an axolotl takes dedication, regular maintenance, and money. These aren’t beginner pets or low-maintenance tank animals. However, for people willing to meet their special needs, axolotls are incredibly interesting and worth it.

After years of keeping these amazing amphibians, I can say the work is definitely worthwhile. Watching how they act, admiring how they look, and keeping them healthy feels really satisfying despite the challenges.

You’re ready for axolotl ownership if you can do:

• Weekly water changes no matter what
• Daily watching and feeding schedule
• Temperature control (possibly needing chiller)
• Regular water testing
• Long-term care (10-15+ years)
• Starting cost of $300-500
• Monthly costs of $45-75
• Emergency vet access

If these fit your lifestyle and budget, getting an axolotl will be a really rewarding experience that connects you with one of nature’s coolest creatures.